Lago Atitlan (10/29/10-11/3)

almost camping heaven on Lago Atitlan

Almost 2 hours and 35 miles south brings me to Lago Atitlan and the main town of Panajachel. This is a lake formed by a collapsed volcano, like Crater Lake in Oregon, except bigger, a lot bigger. This is a destination that actually lives up to the hype. Beautiful. Lots of Americans and Europeans are here on holiday or living full-time. Some locals think they're all a bunch of hippies.

I locate the Vision Azul hotel on the south edge of town where they have an expansive lawn right on the lake with a perfect view of all three volcanos. I fell in love with this place right away, deciding I was going to stay right here for a week, or more, forever. I even attached the room for long-term comfort. And I was excited to be back in the tent.
 

poolside at the Cacique

The next morning reality hit. The bathroom, which looked fine the prior afternoon, was now anything but. The lights weren't working and so I found out the hard way that the toilet was overflowing. Not good. I also found out the night before in looking thru the guidebooks that Eric, the manager, was charging me like 2-1/2 times what he should be. Anyway, the bathroom situation shattered the dream and so I walked thru town to find a place where I could park. I settle on the Cacique Inn, run by Emilio, a happy and gracious man who just this morning had my new 22" machete sharpened as a favor. Watch out all you bad guys!

newer part of the cemetary in Pana

older part...colorful

This week I've been taking spanish lessons at the Jardin de America which is only 5 minutes away. 4 hours each morning of one-on-one speaking with Olga, a young Mayan woman who definitely has a lot of patience. I will never be fluent. Yesterday, Nov. 2, we walked over to the cemetary as a field trip where the locals had been sprucing up the graves and crypts of their loved ones and leaving flowers, candles, rum, etc. They were often eating and drinking with the departed and there was a really festive atmosphere in and around. Day of the Dead and Day of the Saints (Nov. 1) are big in Latin America. Emilio's wife made some extra fiambre for the 1st, a special once-a-year meal that I was able to try. It's a large serving of many vegetables, sausages, olives, hard-boiled eggs (which I ate!) in a sauce that mostly seems like olive oil and vinegar. It's served cold and it was very good. Dessert was a custard made from a kind of a sweet potato, but not. It also had kernels of corn in it - different - but it was good, too. It seems that every other tree has fruit growing on it around here, some I've never heard of. This is sometimes called a land of eternal spring. No wonder so many come here to stay. I'll be here a while longer myself.