Chichicastenango (10/27-10/28)



cleared landslide east of Huehue.

As I was checking out of my room in Huehue., I noticed the FJ had been washed. The hotel informed me it was a simple courtesy. I realized that dusty, dirty yellow is still yellow and I was glad to get all those bugs off the front grill. The road east to Sacapulas, and then south to Chichi. had a number of recent washouts and the road was down to one lane a number of times. Four hours to drive 79 miles. But the countryside is full of beautiful views at every corner (the morning haze made any pictures unworthy). Dramatic ups and downs give way to rolling corn fields on the top and river valleys at the bottom. I also passed another yellow FJ. In Guatemala. I'm not alone.


Tomasa and I at
the Pascual Abaj shrine

Pedro runs the small 8 room Posada el Arco where I take a room for two nights in Chichi. Once again, it's only me. He is a kind man who once lived in Chicago and he invites me for morning coffee, bread, pineapple and anona fruit, which I've never tried, but it's sweet and happens to taste a little like pineapple. He is able to fill me in on local info. as well as the fact that the main road to Lago Atitlan is blocked off for the next two months and here's the alternate route. Very helpful.

In town, I take the guided tour with a Mayan woman named Tomasa, who explains the unusual juxtiposition between mayan and catholic rituals that take place in the main church (shamans light candles and leave offerings of flowers, alcohol, etc to help local families with whatever - they have some 15 gods to cover most everything - right down the middle of the aisle). They have another shrine which is a long walk up a hill on the edge of town. This is for the mayan rituals only. Lots of smoldering fires and more offerings. You can probably find all the info. you need on-line if it sounds interesting.


woman biding her time

Next day, Thursday, is one of the big market days that Chichi. is known for, and the main reason I'm here. The guidebooks insist it's a must. Well, I'm told Sunday is even bigger and maybe it's the cloudy weather, but this is a bit disappointing. Yes, it's still bigger than most I've seen, but a market is still just a market, afterall. Here are a few pictures. I found out the placename ending 'tenango' means 'place of'. It's a common ending for towns and a few states in the highlands.

selling flowers on the church steps