Puerto Escondido and Playa Ventura (4/26/11-4/28)

Up and Down the Mountain

the scrubby part

Oaxaca, like most cities, has a lot of sprawl and it takes me over an hour to get beyond the messy edges. After that, the  decent two-lane road, Mex. 131, goes southwest through dry highland farm country - corn mostly - and scrubby ranchland. Everything is quite dry and brown for the long, twisty drive up the mountain. How twisty was it? There were more twists in this road than at a Chubby Checker concert. There were more curves than a whole bevy of bellydancers. A lot! The last third of the drive is over the top and down onto the green side of the mountain. This section is also filled with potholes. How many potholes? More holes than it takes to fill Albert Hall. More holes than are in the plotline to the Matrix movies. A lot! It took 7-1/2 hours to go 167 miles.

Puerto Escondido

surfing off  Playa Zicatela

This was one of my favorite towns 5 years ago so I was looking forward to seeing it again. I don't know, can't put my finger on it, but I don't hold it in such high esteem anymore. It looks as though continued haphazard construction has put the town at a tipping point of no return.



looking down at the heart of P.E
where most swimming is allowed.

 I decided to get a room at the same Beach Hotel Ines on the long Playa Zicatela. This stretch is known as the Mexican Pipeline and the waves may get as high as 12 meters in the next 2 months, or so. Not a place for beginners, swimming usually isn't allowed, but it's nice to look at. The Ines has been around forever and it has a prime location and a fair amount of character. When I was in Nicaragua, I ran into a guy frm N.J. named Carlos who stayed here for years. He asked me to say hello for him if I swung by. Carlos, they - Peter and Ines - say hi back.

Playa Ventura


O. to P.E. to P.V.
black is prior trip
click to enlarge

There are a number of beach access roads and small towns as you drive up the coastal highway towards Acapulco, and about 5 hours from P.E. is Playa Ventura. Ines herself had suggested the La Tortuguita to me 5 years ago. This is a cool little place run by Julio and Ester, from Switzerland. Built from scratch, including a great pool just off the beach, I'm able to stay here for 80 pesos.

camped on lawn

5 years ago I wondered if this area would ever see any real growth since it's pretty far from everything. I had never heard of it. Now, the bumpy beach road has been paved and the empty lots on either side of Tortuguita have a small hotel and an Italian restaurant. Who knew? It's good to see Julio and Ester again, and their business has prospered with the restaurant doubling in size. The camarones diablo is delicious. The only bad thing is that some fierce storms in the last year really eroded big parts of the beach. Still, a great place to relax and break up the long drive.