Xpu-Ha (4/6/11-4/17)

The Ride Up


road north to Tulum

After paying Reiner, I drove east to see how Majahual has changed since it took a direct hit from Hurricane Dean in 2007. I had spent 4 days there in 2006 camped in my VW van on main street while various locals tried to help fix my VW overheating problem; at times comical or worrisome, but always interesting and memorable. (I was eventually able to get south to Chetumal where a dealer had the necessary part). I was going to try and look up some of those folks, but the hurricane wiped out much of the town as I knew it. Things have been rebuilt - including the cruise ship dock - but now it definitely has the look and feel of a town built by and for the cruise ships. In fact, there were two big ships there when I arrived. Sorry, not my style. R.I.P., Majahual.

It seems like the entire road north has been repaved and widened as the drive is mostly flat, straight and fast, just like in the picture. Even with the Majahual side-trip I'm able to cover 200 miles in less than 4 hours.

Xpu-Ha  


more Xpu-Ha

Xpu-Ha

This trip would not have been complete without a return to the beaches at Xpu-Ha, specifically La Playa (or, Chalio's beach). It was my favorite location 5 years ago -I stayed 10 days - and it still is. It's just that now I can also compare it to all the beaches I've seen in Central America, and I saw some great beaches.

best campsite of the trip

I was hoping that the spot I occupied back then would be available again, and I was very happy to see that it was. It only took a few minutes to find Chalio sitting under a palapa and we quickly agreed on a price and that I could, indeed, park where I had before. First, I had to make a quick run into Playa del Carmen to the Toyota dealer to schedule my 5000 mile maintenence. They were able to fit me in that afternoon and I had my tent up as dusk was settling in. I didn't move for 12 days.




12 Days 

the model

more X

Every day was like Groundhog Day. Perfect skies with a constant breeze, perfect water at the perfect temperature. I had no agenda but to hang out. I stared at the sea and the beach and the sky...a lot. The colors, it's the colors, man. They had me totally mesmerized and hypnotized and, finally, lobotomized. I had no reason to stay, no reason to leave.

This beach has a large restaurant that caters to day crowds of bused in cruise-shippers and jeep tour groups. Even they couldn't take me out of my trance. I might go in the water once or twice a day, even broke out the snorkel gear once or twice. I might do some reading, or maybe take a walk (do I go left or right today?). Another day I got to watch a photo shoot with a pretty model, so I took a few of my own. She's okay.

at Tacos de Arbolito

Chalio tossing the net for
dinner...he caught 15

The best part of this beach is the people who live here. From day 1, I was lucky enough to be "adopted" by Audrey, an expat who has lived here for years and is a dive instructor. She was often a helpful interpretor and drinking buddy, along with Damian, who captains the dive boats and is one of Chalio's best friends. The three of us had some really good, simple meals in the nearby town of Puerto Aventuras where the locals serve up very good - and cheap - food. Tacos, tortas, shrimp, beans, etc., usually with corn tortillas and a habanero salsa of some sort. The tacos pictured were especially awesome, I'd eat there every week. Then back to the beach for beers, tequila, and repeat (until I'd start yawning).


l. to r. Damian, Vickie, Audrey, Jackie,
me, Chalio, Lorena

The picture at left was taken at a birthday barbeque (unbelievable pork ribs). Vickie and Lorena are friends of everyone, Jackie is Chalio's daughter. A few days earlier Jackie broke out a bucket of oysters on the beach which we downed in shot glasses filled with tequila, sangrita and lime juice. It was fun. 

And then there is the man himself, Chalio. He owns the beach, has lived here all his life and understands these waters better than anyone (see above picture where he easily plucked out dinner...with a net), and is really down-to-earth, enjoys every day. It's a privledge to know him even a little bit, to have shared food and drink with him, with everyone who calls this beach home.

I want to go back.