West Honduran Highlands (3/12/11-3/17)

Lago de Yajoa

north shore of Yajoa

A drive that should have taken about 3 hours from Omoa to Yajoa took about 5-1/2 hours. I think my navigation skills are eroding with time. Huh? What's that you say? First I went around and around and then around - for a third time - a major traffic circle in San Pedro Sula before finding the right way out. Then, for 'x' number of miles south of the city the roads are kinda chewed up plus I get pulled over at two checkpoints. The cops are cool about it, offering me a handshake and a "que tal?" It's similar to "como estas" and a phrase I've only heard in Honduras. I rather like it; it's more fun to say. You should try it.

canal connecting Naranjos to Yajoa

I drove right past the northern entrance to the lake because my otherwise trusty map didn't show any of the towns I was looking for. I went almost around the lake before surmising that it would be best to go back to that same northern entrance since I seemed to be drifting further from the lake with every mile. Several drives back and forth through Pena Blanca before finding the road to Los Naranjos. (Neither of these towns was on the map.) This is where Hidden River is located, a small locallly owned hotel that I had been told about and where I was, strangely, the only guest for two nights even though it was the weekend. I think it must have recently changed ownership. They opened their restaurant for me and my dinner was interesting. They only had carne de res (beef) and chorizo. So, okay I'll go with that. Well, unless you're in a top restaurant in Mexico or Central America, the beef is almost always cut really thin and it truly resembles shoe leather...chewy is a kind word for it. The "chorizo" turned out to be two boiled hotdogs. I ate one to be polite. The beans were good.


one of the signed trails

There is a finca nearby that allows people to hike around their beautiful property for $2.50 along mostly well signed trails. Not always, though, as I hit a few deadends surrounded by coffee plants and other thick vegetation. I later met the finca owner and he admitted the signage could use some "tweaking". A nice couple of hours, nonetheless, and I got to see some cool birds, but I couldn't tell you which ones. Dinner that night was chicken with beans and tortillas. Much better, edible even. Right next door is the much written about D & D Brewery, a small brewpub and hostel run by an expat. I don't know what the guidebooks saw, but I saw a place past its prime - maybe unkempt is more accurate - and the beer only okay. Not that I didn't order a second one, but a guy's gotta stay hydrated in the tropics, you know.

Gracias


between Esperanza and Gracias

Leaving the lake I take the major highway south - you have to go up a serious mountain with some great views - before turning west into more mountains and Lenca country. The Lenca are an indigenous people of the area who lived just south of the Maya empire, with some overlap. The Honduran national currency is named for one of their leaders, Lempira. The Spanish ambushed and killed him in 1538 and that was that. The Lenca are known for pottery and this was my Honduran handicraft of choice. A small dish and urn for the collection, very tasteful.




yellow church, blue sky

The countryside is mountainous and the living here is very much rural and subsistent, and I'm told a number of organizations from the Peace Corps to doctors to other volunteers are usually somewhere around. From Esperanza at the southern-most point of my drive up to Gracias is a road that at first is terrible, then really good, then somewhere in between. And it's hot up here. Gracias is a small town, dusty with cobblestone and dirt streets and not a lot going on. It's one of the oldest towns, founded in 1526, so there are a few colonial churches and the parque central is one of the better ones I've seen in Central America, if only because it isn't bursting with lots of noise and vendors.


one night in Gracias

I read about a place, the Finca Bavaria, where one could camp. I wasn't leaving Honduras without breaking out the tent at least once. An older gentleman shows me where I can park for $5. I  ask about use of a bathroom and I have to kick in another $2 for the honor. Mind you, I'm the only one here and the rooms they have for rent would be condemned even if it were a prison. When I go to check out the bathroom I find a used condom floating in it. What's really gross is that someone actually used that room for sex, sex with what I don't know. The thought of that binded me up sufficiently that I never did use the bathroom. I found a good restaurant for dinner and had a good sleep in my favorite spot...the roof of my car.

Copan Ruinas



the road north of Gracias

Other than the Bay Islands this is probably the biggest tourist destination in Honduras. The town is clean and friendly with cobblestone streets, and reminds me of a small Antigua, Guatemala. If you like one you'll like the other. I did, at any rate. Since tourism is such a big part of the economy here, you can find many hotel and restaurant options in all price ranges. After walking up to 5 hotels I chose Los Jaguares ($25) for the secure parking. Again, I'm the only one here. Not sure why but everything seems fine to me this time.

Hacienda La Esperanza

My first hour there I walk over to Carnitas Nia Lola for lunch and meet two expats, Rodger and Pam. They operate a non-profit in town called Paramedics for Children. They also happen to own what is probably the best B & B around (see photo) and all proceeds go to the charity; you can write off your stay here. After a few drinks they take me over in their golf cart to take a look at the place and Pam offers me a very generous discount and I decide to stay there on my third night. Later on at dinner at Via Via I run into James, the Coloradan I met last week in Tela, and we have a good chat while I scarf down some tasty tacos.

one of the great stelae

The ruins are only a 15 minute walk from town and for $22 you get access to the site as well as to a very good musuem. The musuem is where they have brought most of the significant stelae and other sculptures for safe keeping. I think Copan is known for truly exceptional Mayan stonework and extensive hyroglyphics, and of the 9-10 Mayan sites I've been to, Copan has by far the most impressive stonework. The site is fairly contained and doesn't have the giant pyramids that some others do. About two hours is my limit on looking at old rocks but it's well worth the price of admission.

my 22 days in Honduras
click to enlarge

This is probably my favorite town in Honduras and it's worth several days of anyone's time. It's pretty country with agreeable weather and there are birding areas, hiking, all that. I felt safer in this part of the country than I did when I first entered. Maybe it was the hangover effect from the Pacific that put me on my guard. Next up, I'm headed back into Guatemala.