Little Corn Island (2/15/11-2/20)

Managua


Nicaragua showing route out
to Corn Islands, click to enlarge

As you drive north along the Pan Am from Rivas the road gains altitude, cooling things off a bit. I expected it to be prettier along here than it was, but as you approach Managua from the south there are good views out over Lake Managua and the nearby volcans. Then it's down into the traffic of the city, a city with no street signs. I followed my instincts and the FJ compass to find my way to the northern-most road that runs east towards the airport. This is the road where the Camino Real Hotel is located, the hotel I was scheduled to stay at the night before flying to the Corn Islands. This airport road turns out to be full of corrupt cops looking to squeeze unsuspecting American tourists. That would be me. They say don't pay, call his bluff, but in the moment when he has your license and wants some money before returning it, that seems the easiest way out. So, the fat fucker with the acne scars got 500 cordobas, about $24. He wanted $40. I hate that shit but I don't have the resolve to fight them.

I missed my turn for the hotel - probably steaming over my lack of resolve - so I turned around and as I was driving into the hotel another cop car shows up out of nowhere. They want to see my papers since I apparently made a wrong move out on the road. This is bullshit, and I tell them I have no more money to give them, their friend with the acne scars took it all already. The hotel doorman had walked up to us by this time and the cops finally said they only had wanted to check my papers. Right.

Little Corn


plane out to Big Corn

Early the next morning I catch the shuttle to the airport for the plane ride to Big Corn Island; we first stop off at Bluefields on the coast, where it's rainy and somewhat dreary. Landing in Big Corn, taxis take everyone over to Brigg Bay, where the panga waits to take us to Little Corn. Actually, we wait for it, about an hour and a half. A walk around Brigg Bay in the meantime reveals a frayed and also dreary place with a touch of "not sure if I'm feeling very safe here", and I'm not sorry to be leaving. The guidebooks don't think much of Big Corn, either.

the panga, foreground, at Brigg Bay



approaching Little Corn

A panga is a long open boat with a 500hp motor (I think) and we get at least 24 people on board for the 30 minute ride over open water. The water starts coming over the sides spraying half of us so the crew breaks out a big black tarp that we are supposed to hold over our heads while we fly over the ocean swells bouncing around pretty good along the way. People sometimes get sick on this ride and I believe one man did on this trip, as well. Bad news is he has to ride back at some point. I started feeling a bit lightheaded myself after awhile. For someone like me just getting to Little Corn is an adventure, and I'd recommend to anyone who tends to get seasick to load up on the motion pills, or consider another island.



Little Corn main village/harbor

beach



beach

the always popular boat photo

There was a couple sharing the plane ride and the boat with me, and they eventually introduced themselves in a sneaky kinda way that took me by surprise. They were Scott and Kristine, the owners of Little Corn Beach and Bungalow, where I had reserved a room. Scott and I had traded emails for a while and he somehow made the connection that I was me. To get to their place, and to many of the other accomodations on the island, there are a couple of trails that wend their way over to the other side of the island, maybe a 10-12 minute walk. That's the good side of the island, with the nicer beaches, coral reef and a steady breeze.



the Beach & Bungalow front yard



Rather than me trying to describe everything, you can check out their digs at http://www.littlecornbb.com/ . They only built and opened up their resort about two years ago, and I think it's probably the best spot on the island. The only thing I'll say is, if you're like me wanting to save a buck, don't do it here. Their budget acommodation is not worth it, especially if you're over about 5'-6". Luckily, one of the regular casitas opened up my last night there, and they were kind enough to upgrade me for a nominal fee. Much appreciated. Which just goes to show you how nice people from Colorado really are (they're from Fort Collins). And they have a good restaurant. I love the toasted coconut french toast and the margaritas, but not at the same time.



Little Corn is a place for divers, snorkelers, fishing (I saw a number of guys walking around with fishing poles, but never any fish), eating lobster, reading and dreaming. I did a lot of the last two. Hedonism is my gig. Leaving the island is everything in reverse, except the plane back was a small 12-seater. I'm not a fan of small planes, but most of the flight was smooth, most of it.