Otra Osa (1/1/11-1/2)

Carate
 

my Osa peninsula travels.
click to enlarge (dashed is boat ride)

Just as I was getting comfy at Fred's place, it was time to leave. But that's how the "grand tour" thing works. I was torn between heading towards the border or seeing the other side of the peninsula. Assuming I'll never be back this way, I soldiered on to Carate. (A toucan whizzed by me as I was packing the car!).

between Matapalo and Carate

The road down to Puerto Jimenez from Rincon was in great shape, newly paved, I believe. Except for the bridges, several of which were rickety temporary structures, the drive from Rincon took only 30 minutes. South to Matapalo - in the far southeast corner - was a different matter. I've now driven over 600 miles in Costa Rica and this is, hands down, the worst road I've seen. Admittedly, I drive a bit slow under these conditions, not wanting to chance damaging the Yellow Wonder. So, the 25 miles from Puerto Jimenez to Carate (day #95) took 2-1/2 hours. There are some 13 water crossings, too, so my advice is to do this trip in the dry season.


free camping sunset in Carate

I reach a hotel called the Lookout Inn, just across the street from the ocean. I ask the owner, an American named Terry, don't you know, and he said there was a great spot next to the beach just over there and it's free. My first free camping! Bam! That's what I'm talking about. I had to drive to the end of the road in one of the more remote parts of Costa Rica before I felt comfortable camping in a public spot. It was very dark and the waves were very loud. And there was a pair of macaws flying around my site, never when I had the camera, of course. They're starting to get on my nerves.

rodeo procession in Puerto Jimenez

The chef at the Lookout is a guy named Gary, who happens to own a restaurant in Durango, CO. I think I'll stop in there in May on the way back up. He also says he's always ready to hire anyone willing to work, good to know if I can't find a job in the real world.

Even though this is a great location, I'm getting anxious to start the final leg south (more like east, really) through Panama, so I pack up and head back north to Puerto Jimenez so I can get the bad road behind me. Never did see the beach at Matapalo - a rich peoples' hideout - as the little branch road in looked worse than even the main road and I'm tired of all the bouncing around. After 23 days straight on the Pacific, one more beach doesn't trip my trigger right now.