Kevin's Tropic Driveabout: Santa Teresa (12/20/10-12/22)

Two Rivers

leaving Samara on a rainy day

After stopping at the local PALI store (it's a grocery chain, they are in Nicaragua, too. Someone told me they are owned by WalMart...figures) it's on the road headed south. There is a short section of paved road and then it's all dirt/mud/sand for the next 70 miles and almost 4-1/2 hours. Part of this road is called the Monkey Trail, and on a couple of occasions I am the only one in some pretty dense jungle with only the sound of the howlers around me.

the Rio Bongo crossing

I had been told about the Rio Bongo and that it's a fairly wide river crossing, but it should be no problem for the FJ. And it wasn't, it's just that the driver needed to take a few deep ones before sliding into the water. The entrance was slick mud and I really did slide with no control until I hit the water. The river was the least of it, I only had to follow the path of some people who were walking across.

the Rio Ario crossing

Samara to Santa Teresa - next is
Montezuma directly to east

I thought that was the end of that, but some time later in a more remote area I came up to the Rio Ario. With the rain last night, the water was a little high and not very clear. No one else was around so I waded in trying to determine the shallowest crossing, but the water was to my knees and I was not at all confident. Besides that, there were only a few tire tracks and I couldn't see where they actually entered the water since it was kinda rocky (I'm no Kit Carson!). Just then a truck comes into the river from the other side, thru a section that I had not even looked at. When he reaches my side he waves his hand, like, "that way, dummy". More deep breaths and I drive across with no problems. That water was close to 18" deep, and I was told you really don't want to get into water over 24", especially with a current. And with no back-up. Really glad I bought the FJ. Both crossings today got my heart going, that's for sure. When I settled in in Santa Teresa, Barbara told me that the Ario has crocodiles. Oh.

Santa Teresa

my suite next to the pool

It was getting dark when I drove down the steep paved road into Santa Teresa/Mal Pais. I was looking for a place with hot water after that drive and the first place I checked was full so they recommended another a few doors down, The Fuego Lodge http://www.fuegosantateresa.com/ , run by Barbara (from Argentina) and her husband Itay (from Israel). They were in a lull before the holidays so she gave me a substantially discounted price, good enough that I ended up staying for 3 nights. The water was hot, the wifi was strong, the bed firm, the a/c cool , the nights quiet and my hosts were very nice.

a neighbor of the hotel

Their hotel is set back from the main beach road, which is a good thing since the road is kinda crowded and noisy. This road, which seems to stretch forever, is packed with all manner of places to stay or eat or to rent a surfboard. Barbara said most of this has happened in the last few years, and it's a bit of a construction clusterfuck, if I do say so myself. But I like Santa Teresa as the beach is beautiful and during low tide the swimming is good. The local dish for this stay is gallo pinto with sausage for $3. It's another rice and beans concoction, tasty and filling, but nothing great. Before I leave Itay gives me directions to a camping spot south of Montezuma which sounds promising.