Leon, Nicaragua (12/2/10-12/5)

Another Border

This border crossing has a much happier ending. On the Honduran side there were still guys hounding me from the road right up to the customs window until I pulled away. One guy continuously shadowed me and even helped a little with translation but I still blew him off. Two different windows and people to deal with, but no cost and only about 20 minutes. Then you approach a bridge where a cop takes a little piece of paper that the aduana gave me earlier, he glances over the vehicle and lets me go. Leaving Honduras, so sad.


over the bridge to Nicaragua

You cross a bridge to get into Nicaragua. Lots of river borders on the Pacific. I'm directed to the customs building off to the right where you do everything. News flash: no one tries to "help" here. It's all very professional and I like Nicaragua right away.

When I park an official-looking guy points me to the correct line to get my visitor pass, at a cost of $12 (interesting that the receipt shows only $2, the rest to be pocketed, I guess). While I wait in line, the same guy fills out my car insurance papers - you need to buy it when you cross into Nicaragua and it also cost $12. A trip over to the copy lady, at a cost of 4 cordobas (20 cents). I only had 100 cordoba notes, so the helpful guy actually paid it for me! Bonus points for Nicaragua. Over to another window to get my vehicle papers, no charge. On the way out I'm stopped to fill out a declaration page (I have nothing they're interested in) and I'm free to drive. Maybe 1-1/2 hours for everything, $24. Not bad.

Leon


constant companion on the drive to Leon

A nice drive south interrupted after only a few miles when these two dudes, at an official-looking stop, want $2 for a tourist fee. OK, and I get two receipts, one for each dollar. On thru beautiful countryside filled with sugarcane and cattle ranches. Nicaragua has a string of 10 volcanos along this part of the country, one of which is rather large and smoking (picture). I think it's San Cristobal.

What I notice is there are fewer cars and many more people riding horses or bikes and more ox-driven carts than I've seen elsewhere. And the road is pretty good, too. From the border at Guasaule to Leon is only about 2 hours.


the Leon cathedral, largest in C.A.
it could use a good scrubing

common transportation in Leon
and elsewhere in Nica.

I find a hotel, the Europa, that has secure parking and walk around town for awhile. Leon has an honest-to-goodness grocery store so I buy some food supplies and some M&M peanuts (a recent craving). On the way back to my room, I run into Lenny, from New Jersey, and Brian, from England. I met these guys earlier at the border crossing and they are riding their motorcycles from Alaska to Chile. We share some border stories and exchange emails. I'm curious about the South America leg, that being a long-term goal of mine. I happened to find a website the other day that does a pretty good job of detailing all border crossings and procedures top-to-bottom, it's www.drivetheamericas.com/wiki/ . Prices aren't always accurate, though. I think if you're a tall white guy in a big yellow vehicle there's sometimes a kind of added "tax", I'll call it.

My main goal the next day is to try to secure an appointment in Managua at the Toyota dealer for Monday (time for my 5000 mile check-up). I spent close to an hour writing out my needs and questions in my best Spanish. When I started to go over this with the hotel owners' daughter, Lilian, she says "oh, I speak fluent English". She makes all the phone calls for me and I'm set for 9am. I love Lilian!

Las Penitas

room at Samaki, very comfortable

I wanted to check out this beach town west of Leon, only about 20-25 minute drive on a very good road. I found the La Samaki in the Footprint guidebook and they have parking. (I know I'm renting a lot of rooms in C.A., but finding a secure - and nice - place to open up the tent is very difficult down here, and this trip is risky enough as it is). Gordon, a Canadian who owns the place with his wife Pita, originally from Kenya, welcome me as I pull up to their place at the end of the road. Penitas is a small fishing village and a weekend escape for Nicaraguan city-folk, and for backpackers and wanderers like myself. I really like it here.

outside of the Samaki, this is the
bay end of town

The Samaki (Swahili for "fish") has just four rooms and I'm the only guest for my two nights. Perfect. Pita is a real pistol and we hit it off right away, trading barbs like old friends. They have a small restaurant, open for dinner, with a chef named Jason who has cooked up in Toronto. He makes a special of chicken kabobs with a butternut squash puree that is the best meal I've had in some time. Other people (lots of Canadians down here with a sprinkling of Americans) show up for the food and stay for the drinks. Much beer and rum are consumed. This is my life these days. The Samaki is for sale if you're interested, asking $260k at the moment. See their website.