Apaneca
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| part of the open-air restaurant at the Jardin de Celeste |
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| coffee on hill above Apaneca |
This town is in the middle of one of the big coffee growing regions of the country. They like it on the strong side and it's very good so I bought a bag from the place I was staying, Jardin de Celeste, only $4.50 at the source. The food here has a good rep and I got to try some new things. The black bean soup had masitas, which are like dumplings made with corn masa and some cheese. And the chicken was served with a delicious green loroco sauce, which is a local flower. In the morning I had pancakes that were served with maple syrup and a gooey, warm caramel. Holy crap, what a dangerous combination... I love it (I hope my dentist isn't reading this. Sorry Dr. Gill). This jardin is primarily a coffee finca but they have a number of very nice cabins, the well-regarded restaurant and a large plant nursery (some Americans were touring the place when I arrived), all in a garden setting. They also use two armed guards (with shotguns) something that is quite common in El Salvador. Keeps me on my toes.
Cerro Verde National Park
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| the friendly tourist police in El Salvador |
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| a view of Lago Coatepeque |
Leaving the gift shop I started speaking with another tourist cop, Juan, when these two young women joined us. The cop was their guide and it turns out they spoke perfect English. They work in a call center in the western city of Santa Ana and their names are Gaby and Silvana. People from Santa Ana are called "Santeeeens" by the rest of the country (I hope I got that right, Gaby).
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| Izalco, one of the youngest volcanos in the world (1770) when it's clear you can see the Pacific beyond |
The three of us spent a couple of hours together, having lunch where we talked about the local foods and about a white flower that was growing on a nearby tree that some folks put under their pillow to help them sleep. It's supposed to release a chemical. On a guided walk thru the woods with about 10 Spanish-speaking people Gaby was nice enough to translate for me (and I found out Silvana knows a few choice words in English, pretty funny). They both help me pick the safer roads for the next leg of my journey and then we say goodbye.
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| Gaby and Silvana |
There is a camping spot between the two volcans of Santa Ana and Cerro Verde called Casa de Cristal so I head down to check it out. I am proud to say that I actually camped that night! Carlos, the enthusiastic young manager, helped me find the best spot. They have a small tienda on sight and it's here that I had my first pupusa, a national food of El Salvador. A deceptively simple thick corn tortilla stuffed with beans and cheese (usually) and then cooked up on a grill, it is really good. And really cheap. They are often served with a pickled cabbage and tomato sauce, but I pass on those when buying on the street. These were 50 cents each because it was a remote spot but you can buy them for half that. Three does the trick for me.
There are a number of day visitors to this park, including a guy named Alex who is anxious to show off his English. He tells me I must be a friendly person because most tourists he tries to talk to walk away out of fear, he thinks. I can vouch for Alex, he just looks scary (kidding).
Sunday in La Palma is a market day and they have narrow streets, often one-way, and suffice it to say it was a trying 45 minutes going around and around looking for a road with no sign. I give up and take a room at the place right in front of me. I spent some time checking out a few of the atesania shops selling the famous local crafts, which are essentially brightly painted boxes and crosses and the like. I fail to see the real attraction, but maybe I'm just worn out by the drive. The best part of the day is a woman in the Parque Central who is whipping up some killer pupusas for 25 cents each. They are fabulous! Moon, that's some El Salvadoran street food for you. Wish I had a picture but the camera was back in the room.
Next morning I give the crafts another look and decide I'm not driving all this way and not buying something. The artist who started all this, Fernando Llort, and who taught the rest of the town a style known as Naive Art, now lives in San Salvador and sells his paintings for a lot of money and is in the MoMA, or so I'm told. Now I've got two bright wooden boxes buried in my car.
To tell you the truth I was kinda underwhelmed by La Palma. It's otherwise an area with great hiking possibilities. One night was plenty.
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| camped under the Volcan Santa Ana |
I must have met 6-7 very helpful and kind Salvadorans today. A good day. The night, though, turns out to be fairly gusty. The tent doesn't care at all but I've had better sleeps. But it's okay because just opening the tent again was enough to keep me smiling.
La Palma
From the park it's about a 4-1/2 hour drive over 118 miles of mostly good, scenic roads. Southeast from Metapan - nothing of interest to the traveler here that I could see - there is a brand-spanking new road built to the highest standards and both I and Big Yellow are loving it. The middle part of this road is still under construction, however, and I'm equally glad to have a high-clearance vehicle. It goes thru some beautiful mountainous country and will be a great route in another year, or two.
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| spreading coffee beans in La Palma |
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| La Semilla de Dios, the workshop started by F. Llort in La Palma |
To tell you the truth I was kinda underwhelmed by La Palma. It's otherwise an area with great hiking possibilities. One night was plenty.
Playa El Tunco
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| my balcony at La Guitarra...the hammock and crashing surf were amazing |
From Libertad to points west are some world-class surf beaches and I had to be one of the very few who didn't own a pair of board shorts (why do they have to be so long?), maybe because I'm also one of the few over 27. Lots of healthy young American women surfing here, what's not to like? When I pulled in a guy laying around says hello and his name is Mike, from Montana. Mike lets me park in the small lot across from his tienda and I walk over to La Guitarra to secure a room for $30, a bit steep but I fell in love with the balcony...it had me at hello. I found out later I could have camped next door at D'Rocas for $5 (w/elec.). Next time. Ask for a guy named Indio.
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| the main reason people come here |
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| main street, El Tunco |
The next day I jump into the ocean. Wow, the water is warm and perfect. Even though I don't surf, I can sure bodysurf and it is too much fun. Just getting slammed around by the waves makes me feel like a kid again. It reminded me of the old Belmar, NJ days about a hundred years ago. It got me to thinking about my good friend Sicky. Don't know if you ever read this Jeff, but I was thinking you'd love this place. (btw, welcome aboard Woody! is that a picture of your nose?).
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| low tide, looking west |
From here west to El Zonte seems to be the best not only for surfing but for hanging out. This is the area to look at if you want to take a beach vacation in El Salvador. In my humble opinion.
Costa del Sol
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| the wall along the Costa del Sol... no welcome here |
This had been my intended beach target in El Salvador before I was lucky enough to run into Carla. As a tourist, I would stay away from this area. It is, I think, built by and for the locals and not for the outside traveler. The beaches and the water are nice enough but there is an almost continuous wall for over 3 miles (I checked) that blocks out any view or access of the ocean. This is like a privacy wall for those who happen to own the beachfront. One night at an old cabana club - like right out of the 60's and now fairly shabby - and I was ready to leave. In hindsight, I should've camped at Indio's place an extra day, or two.
Alegria
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| the church and old man |
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| even the power poles are beautiful, all of them |
"High in the mountains, Alegria is an unsung gem and one of El Salvador's most picturesque towns." So begins the description in Lonely Planet. I'll go one step further. This may be the prettiest, nicest, cleanest and most peaceful town I've ever seen south of the Rio Grande (granted, I haven't been everywhere...yet). As the highest town in the country even the weather is absolutely perfect, crystal clear with low humidity and in the upper 70's. The only thing missing is that most of the flowers aren't until May.
When I arrive there are already about 3 dozen people from Guatemala here on a 3 day retreat taking up most available rooms, putting me into a bit of a scramble. On a corner across from the Parque Central is the Hostel Piedras and the owner Roberto is happy to report he has a room left, for $16, with it's own bathroom (hot water provided by a device mounted to the shower head with exposed wires; it works, not like some I've seen). I can even pull my car into the small lot at night. The next day he handed me a color brochure that brings a whole bunch of hostels/posadas from all over C. A. together in one place. If someone ever comes across this blog planning a similar trip, the website is http://www.posadasruralesdeca.com/ . Very helpful. The highend joint in town is called Cartagena (?) and has unobstructed views north.
On my second day here Roberto and I were to take a hike up to the rim of the local extinct Volcan Tecapa that has a green, sulphurous crater lake in it. It turns out his uncle Carlos and cousin Peter and his wife Delma and a guide named Walter were going to join us. We walked a trail up the back side of the volcan thru coffee fincas and then around the rim (Walter killing a snake along the way with his machete) and down to the lake, called the Laguna de Alegria, about 3-1/2 hours. From the rim you can see south to the Pacific. Once again, I'm happy I spent time in the gym, even if it was 4 months ago.
Probably my smoothest drive in awhile, only one Sunday market to snake around and in just over 2 hours I'm in another mountain town on the northern border. Perquin is noted as an area where great atrocities took place during the war and that just happens to be in a beautiful setting. I'm staying at the Perkin Lenca, the areas' best (still only $20 for one person) and built and operated by an expat American who came down to help rebuild the area. This is a quiet town where not much seems to be happening but is known for it''s hiking and swimming holes. Also for the Museo de la Revolucion, a collection of pictures of many of those killed (the guerillas - the losing side), old weapons and the guerilla encampment nearby, among other memorabilia.
My main concern here was trying to prep as much as possible for the next two border crossings, the first one into Honduras having about the worst rep. in C.A. So my nerves are in a bundle right now. I hope to send out a positive report from Leon, Nicaragua in another 3-4 days.
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| Roberto and his place |
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| on the rim of the volcan |
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| the climb up, Alegria below |
One more night of strolling around the main square where there is a little tienda that sells the best little coffee candies at cinco centavos apiece. I can't recommend this town enough. And the $1 Pilseners - one of El Salvadors' most popular beers - and fresh, free coffee (better than Fourbucks any day) that Roberto serves up makes it even better.
Perquin  |
| first view of the crater lake |
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| "she's concave and he's convex..." Steve Goodman |
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| part of a mural on the Perquin Parque Central |
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| old weapons on display at Museo |
My main concern here was trying to prep as much as possible for the next two border crossings, the first one into Honduras having about the worst rep. in C.A. So my nerves are in a bundle right now. I hope to send out a positive report from Leon, Nicaragua in another 3-4 days.
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| western El Salvador. click to enlarge, as with any photo |
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| eastern El Salvador. from Perquin in north road south then east to El Amatillo...border hell according to some |
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